First Things First: Are Scorpions Good Pets?

The short answer is yes—but only for the right person. Scorpions are not like dogs or cats. They don’t want to cuddle. They don’t recognize

The short answer is yes—but only for the right person.

Scorpions are not like dogs or cats. They don’t want to cuddle. They don’t recognize you. They won’t come when called. What they will do is sit in their enclosure, look incredibly cool, and let you watch them go about their mysterious little lives.

If you’re the type of person who finds joy in observing natural behaviors rather than interacting with a pet, a scorpion might be perfect for you. Think of them more like a living aquarium than a traditional pet.

Ask yourself these questions before you commit:

Are you comfortable handling live insects like crickets and roaches?
Do you have a secure, escape-proof enclosure? (These guys are sneaky)
Are you okay with a pet that’s purely for observation, not handling?
Can you maintain specific temperature and humidity levels consistently?

If you answered yes to all of these, keep reading.

Choosing Your Scorpion: The Emperor Is Your Best Friend

Here’s the most important piece of advice I can give you: start with an Emperor Scorpion.

The Emperor Scorpion (Pandinus imperator) is widely considered the best choice for beginners. They’re one of the largest scorpion species in the world, growing up to 8 inches. They’re glossy black, impressive to look at, and—most importantly—they’re known for being docile and tolerant.

Their venom is mild, about as painful as a bee sting. They rarely sting unless they feel genuinely threatened.

Other beginner-friendly options:

Asian Forest Scorpion (Heterometrus spp.): Similar to Emperors but slightly more defensive. Not recommended for handling, but still a good display pet.
Dictator Scorpion (Pandinus dictator): Another large, impressive species. Less common but still manageable for beginners.

Species to avoid as a beginner:

Desert Hairy Scorpion: Fast-moving, defensive, and requires very specific dry conditions.
Bark Scorpions: Some species have potent venom and are not for beginners.

Setting Up the Enclosure: Their Whole World

A clean, organized photograph of a glass terrarium setup for a scorpion, showing deep substrate, cork bark hides, a shallow water dish with stones, and a heat mat on the side. The environment looks natural and well-maintained. Bright natural lighting. Photorealistic, high resolution, educational.

This is where most new keepers mess up. Scorpions have specific needs, and if you don’t meet them, your scorpion won’t thrive.

The Tank

A 10-gallon glass tank is usually perfect for one adult scorpion. Glass is ideal because it holds heat well and gives you a clear view of your pet.

Critical: You need a secure, locking screen lid. Scorpions can squeeze through incredibly small openings. If there’s a gap, they will find it and escape. Trust me on this.

Don’t go too big. A tank larger than 20 gallons can make it harder for your scorpion to catch its prey.

Substrate (What Goes on the Bottom)

The substrate needs to match your scorpion’s natural habitat.

For tropical species (Emperor, Asian Forest):

Use 4-6 inches of coconut fiber, organic topsoil, or a mix with sphagnum moss.
Keep it slightly moist but never wet.
They love to burrow, so give them room to dig.

For desert species:

Use a sand/soil mix with clay that’s compact enough to hold burrows.
Keep it dry.

Temperature and Humidity

This is non-negotiable. Get a thermometer and a hygrometer.

Tropical species (Emperor, Asian Forest):

Daytime temperature: 75-85°F (24-29°C)
Nighttime temperature: 70-75°F (21-24°C)
Humidity: 75-85%
Mist lightly once a day

Desert species:

Temperature: 82-90°F (28-32°C) during the day
Humidity: 30-40%
Do NOT mist; provide a shallow water dish instead

Use a heat mat on the side of the tank, not underneath. Heating from below can overheat the substrate and harm your scorpion.

Hides and Decor

Scorpions are shy creatures. They need places to hide and feel secure.

Good options:

Cork bark or half logs
Ceramic or plastic hides
Flat rocks or slate
Artificial plants for aesthetics

Don’t overcrowd the tank, but do give them at least one good hiding spot. Some species, like Emperors, will dig extensive burrow systems if you give them deep enough substrate.

Lighting

Most scorpions are fully nocturnal and don’t need special lighting. They prefer dim environments.

If you want to watch them at night, you can use a red or blue “night light” which won’t disturb them.

And here’s a fun fact: if you shine a UV (blacklight) on your scorpion, they will glow a beautiful blue-green color. It’s caused by compounds in their exoskeleton. Pretty cool, right?

Feeding: What and When

Scorpions are carnivorous insectivores. They eat live prey.

Good food options:

Crickets (the staple)
Dubia roaches
Mealworms
Waxworms (occasional treat)

Important rules:

Never feed wild-caught bugs. They can carry parasites or toxins.
Gut-load your feeders. Feed the insects nutritious food (fresh veggies, fruits, or commercial gut-load) for at least 24 hours before offering them to your scorpion.
Don’t feed “people food.” No leftovers, no fruits, no vegetables.

Feeding schedule:

Juveniles: Every 2-3 days
Adults: Once or twice a week
Remove uneaten prey after 24 hours

Prey size rule: The prey should be smaller than your scorpion’s pincer span.

Water

Scorpions get most of their water from their food and humidity. But you should still provide a shallow water dish.

Safety tip: Add smooth stones to the bottom of the dish so your scorpion doesn’t submerge and drown.

Change the water daily.

Handling: The Honest Truth

Here’s what most guides won’t tell you straight up: you really shouldn’t handle your scorpion.

I know, I know. You want to hold your cool new pet. But here’s why it’s a bad idea:

It stresses them out. Scorpions don’t enjoy being handled. It’s not natural for them.
You could get stung or pinched. Even docile species can react defensively if they feel threatened.
You could injure them. They’re delicate creatures. A fall from even a short height can be fatal.

The exception: Some experienced keepers do handle Emperor Scorpions because they’re so docile. But even then, handling should be minimal.

If you must move your scorpion:

Use soft tongs or a container
Never grab the tail
Move slowly and gently

One more thing: Never handle a scorpion that has recently molted. Their new exoskeleton is soft and vulnerable until it hardens, which takes about a week.

💡 The Unique Stuff: What Most Guides Don’t Tell You

1. The UV Glow Has a Purpose

That blue-green glow under UV light isn’t just for show. Scientists believe it might help scorpions detect UV light in their environment, which could help them avoid exposure during the day. Some researchers even think it might be a way for them to communicate or find each other.

2. They’re “Live-Bearing”

Unlike many insects that lay eggs, female scorpions give live birth. The babies are born alive and immediately climb onto their mother’s back, where they stay until their first molt. If you ever see a scorpion with babies on its back, leave them alone—it’s a critical time for their survival.

3. The Molting Process Is Dangerous

Scorpions molt (shed their exoskeleton) about twice a year. During this time, they may hide for days and refuse food.

Here’s what most guides won’t tell you: If the humidity isn’t high enough, your scorpion may not be able to molt completely. A failed molt can be deadly. After they molt, do not feed them for about a week while their new exoskeleton hardens. Their new “skin” is soft and vulnerable.

4. They’re Surprisingly Social (Sometimes)

Most scorpions are solitary and will cannibalize each other. But some species, like certain bark scorpions, can live communally. If you’re keeping multiple scorpions, do your research on the specific species first. For beginners, stick to one scorpion per tank.

5. The “Death Stalker” Warning

Only about 25 species of scorpions worldwide have venom that can kill a human. The most famous is the Death Stalker scorpion (Leiurus quinquestriatus). Never buy a “hot” (highly venomous) species as a beginner. Stick with Emperors or Asian Forest scorpions, and you’ll be fine.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Mistake #1: Not enough humidity. This is the #1 killer of tropical scorpions. Get a hygrometer and check it daily.

Mistake #2: Overfeeding. Adult scorpions don’t need to eat every day. Overfeeding can lead to obesity and health problems.

Mistake #3: Handling too much. Your scorpion isn’t a puppy. Leave it alone.

Mistake #4: Using the wrong substrate. Desert species need sand. Tropical species need moisture-retaining substrate. Get it right.

Mistake #5: Forgetting about the lid. Scorpions are escape artists. Check your lid regularly.

Quick Reference Care Summary

Aspect	Tropical (Emperor, Asian Forest)	Desert (Desert Hairy)
Tank size	10-20 gallons	10-20 gallons
Substrate	Coconut fiber, soil, sphagnum moss	Sand/soil mix
Temperature (day)	75-85°F (24-29°C)	82-90°F (28-32°C)
Humidity	75-85%	30-40%
Feeding (adults)	1-2 times per week	1-2 times per week
Lifespan	5-8 years	7-10 years
Handling	Minimal, docile species	Not recommended

Final Thoughts

Keeping a scorpion is a unique and rewarding experience. They’re fascinating to watch, low-maintenance, and they live for years—some up to 10 years with proper care.

But they’re not for everyone. They’re display pets, not cuddle buddies. They require specific conditions. And they demand respect.

If you’re ready to provide the right environment and appreciate these creatures for what they are—ancient, mysterious, and beautiful—you’ll find scorpion keeping to be an incredibly cool hobby.

Just remember: do your research, set up the enclosure properly before you bring your scorpion home, and leave them alone to live their best little prehistoric lives.

Disclaimer
This article is for educational and informational purposes only.